Image by Eunice Driver Photography/ SA Fashion Week
After chatting with Black Coffee about the art of pleating and MUNKUS about her fashion inspiration, today our esteemed guest will take us on a journey through the brand's evolution, his innovative design philosophy, and the much-anticipated collection for the SS24 show.
- As the Head of Atelier for Franc Elis, can you share the journey of leading the brand since its establishment in 2003 and how your role has evolved over the years?
My role at Franc Elis has evolved from being a jack-of-all-trades to a designer problem solver. In the last 3 years, I have been working as a creative leader while developing new talent through a Franc Elis subsidiary, as part of my succession plan.
- Franc Elis is renowned for impeccable quality and creative minimalism. How do these principles guide your approach to designing urban men's wear, and how do they contribute to the brand's identity?
The identity of the brand has developed organically over the years because of the inspiration that is linked to colonial heritage. I am inspired by the fresh military regalia in Africa during colonial times and a touch of 'Modern NZOP” in Bamileke signature traditional print that has been around for a century.
- What inspired the theme, and how does it reflect the dynamic fashion landscape?
My next collection will be playful, and it's an expression of how I see the world around me at this point. It's a bit unexpected of Franc Elis, however, as a creative God I refuse to be boxed, either by a precedent or by anyone else's expectations linked to the interpretation of my previous work.
- How do you balance functionality and aesthetics in your designs, creating pieces that are both stylish and practical?
Balancing creativity, stylishness, and functionality is not something a creative God thinks about - it's part of my reflexes. For a design to be made into a collection, certain boxes are checked simultaneously.
- Can you provide insights into the creative process and challenges faced in bringing this collection to life?
The best way to give you an insight is to explain when and how ideas are made and how to select the final theme for the collection: I start by giving myself a deadline for my collection to go into production (partly because I become more creative when I'm under pressure). Each day when I look at the calendar and the storyboard is empty, each time the pressure builds up. Eventually, there is a plethora of ideas that inundate my mind and I start sketching very fast … 5 to 10 sketches down I will pin the main look and feel. From there, a collection is born
- In your role, how do you ensure that Franc Elis remains innovative and relevant in the ever-evolving fashion industry, particularly within the realm of urban men's wear?
To remain innovative and relevant does not require any particular effort; each day you go to work, you build or improve on what you did yesterday, you collaborate with your colleagues and have fun with your tools. New ideas will also pop up here and there, it’s as easy as that.
Obviously, you must bring new creatives up the ranks and invest in them and on new technologies because product quality is directly linked to the quality of your tools.
- Can you share some highlights or memorable moments from your tenure at Franc Elis, where you felt the brand successfully achieved its vision and mission?
As a fashion brand, 20 years can feel like 4 years, I don’t feel like I have scratched the surface of where and how I see Franc Elis. I hope my kids or grandkids will be able to answer this question in the way it should be answered.
However, I had several moments in the last 20 years that signal recognition and a sign that we are on the right path, for example being invited to showcase at Milan Fashion Week, being recommended by the Department of Arts and Culture to give a talk for the City of Joburg Arts Alive, having a queue of uninvited media houses interviewing me after one of my shows, receiving two awards in 2022 by the Fashion Industry Award of South Africa and lastly, ISUZU inviting me for a collaboration.
- With a focus on minimalism, how do you approach the design process to ensure that each piece in the collection has a purpose and contributes to the overall aesthetic narrative?
I try to ensure that either the colours, silhouettes and even the smallest details don’t deviate from the inspiration and sometimes, the main message itself. This ensures that the collection is cohesive and everything works together to convey my message.
- If you were to “dress up” an ISUZU D-MAX X-RIDER, what would it look like?
For a motor show: a bold design, with single contrast outfit, made from soft denim or chino fabric, style with vertical metallic zips and patch pockets and decorative loops will enhance the engineering might of the ISUZU D-MAX X-RIDER.
For everyday wear, the driver of ISUZU D-MAX X-RIDER will fit easily in Franc Elis redefined military urban wear with a minimalistic aesthetic. The bold design of the ISUZU D-MAX X-RIDER pickup requires an outfit to create the balance between the driver and his car.
- What role do you see Franc Elis playing in shaping the future of fashion, and are there specific trends or movements that you aim to contribute to or challenge?
Franc Elis is involved in education and training through its subsidiary, Fashion Institute of Advance Learning (FIAL). This institution’s courses are designed to address the lack of specialist product developers in the fashion industry and to democratise digital tools that enable designers to be more productive and efficient.
- Can you provide a glimpse into the future of Franc Elis, hinting at any upcoming projects or collaborations that enthusiasts of the brand can look forward to?
Yes, my upcoming show is in April in collaboration with ISUZU. The hint is to expect a more playful collection.
The future of Franc Elis promises to be as captivating as its past, with the brand poised to play a pivotal role in shaping the fashion landscape. In an era where innovation meets tradition, Franc Elis continues to break barriers and redefine urban men's wear.
As we eagerly await the upcoming collaboration with ISUZU and the playful collection set to debut in April, it's clear that Franc Elis is a beacon guiding the way towards a future where creativity knows no bounds.
Join ISUZU at SA Fashion Week SS24 on Friday, 19 April 2024 at Mall of Africa. Show starts at 19:00.
